KDL Enterprises Railing Products

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Railing Installation

TOOLS REQUIRED
10” Mitre Saw with Carbide Blade (40+ tooth) Electric Variable Speed Drill (Suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill (optional) Channel Locks Drill Bit Set (for pre-drilling): 7/64” and 11/64” Drive Bits (square): #3 x 6” and #2 x 6” Ear Protection Framing Square Hammer Drill (for concrete applications) Level Rubber Mallet (non-marking) Pencil Power Cords (light duty) 2 Quick Grip Vice Grips (for stair installation) Safety Glasses String Line Tape Measure Tin Snips
HARDWARE GUIDE
Standard & 45 deg. Rail Clip Attaches bottom rail to post. For applications where the deck surface is straight and no post height adjustments need to be made. Attach rail clips using the supplied rail clip jig by resting the jig on the post base. In applications where the post tops have been cut in order to align them with each other, do the following: Measure down and mark 31 1/8” on 1 5/8” x 34” posts or 37 1/8” on 1 5/8” x 40” posts. Then place the top of the rail clip at this mark and attach. Stair Rail Clip Attaches bottom stair rail to post. Two holes are to be pre-drilled through the clip and attached to the post using #10 x 1/2” screws. Fasten the bottom rail using #8 x ¾” screws. Post Mount Plate Attaches straight run top rail to posts without sleeves using #8 x ¾” screws.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for your purchase of a Western ClearView Railing System. We are confident that you will be satisfied with your choice. Please take time to read and understand the following instructions before attempting to install your railing system.
Review the post layout enclosed in your railing package. It details the dimensions you provided of your deck and the suggested post placement based on those dimensions, as well as the top and bottom rail suggested usage. It is very important to understand the layout before beginning the installation of the system. Every system is estimated and packaged specifically for maximum utilization of the product for your specific application. Failure to adhere to the post layout could affect your ability to complete the system with the parts enclosed. Set the corner posts. Position plain 1 5/8” posts so the outside screws will fasten to the center of a rim joist. (This will determine the measurement between the outside edge of the deck and the outside edge of the post base. Maintain this measurement for the entire run if the outside edge of the deck is straight.) Use a framing square to align post base with the edge of the deck. Pre-drill and attach all four base screws (#14 x 3” or #14 x 2” depending on the surface of your deck.) Note: All wood decks must be blocked beneath each post for maximum strength (refer to the estimated post placement on the drawing of your deck). Confirm that the post is plum and level; shim under post base if necessary. Set the intermediate posts. Calculate the measurement between the center of one corner post to the center of the other corner post. Divide this number by the amount of openings (panels) listed on the post layout. The sum will be the measurement from center to center of the intermediate posts within the run. Mark the outside edge of the deck with this measurement, beginning from a corner post and continuing for each post in the run. (As a precaution, check to see that all spaces are of equal length). Note: If the deck surface is uneven, you will need to trim the top(s) of the taller post(s). Run a string between the corner posts and trim as necessary to assure that top rail will run continuously and level over the tops all of the posts. Note: Whenever sleeves are mounted on a post, trim that post and additional 1/8”. Attach the bottom rail clips to the posts. Use the rail clip jig to attach rail clips to unaltered posts (see the attached drawing). Fasten the rail clip using #10 x 1 ½” stainless steel screws. You will need to measure down 31 1/8” from the top of any altered post to the top of the rail clip *instead* of using the rail clip jig. Attach the intermediate posts to the deck surface. Line up the center of the intermediate posts with the marks (Use 1 5/8” post with gusset). Use a framing square to align post base with the edge of the deck. Pre-drill and attach all six base screws (#14 x 3” or #14 x 2” depending on the surface of you deck.) Confirm that the post is plum; shim under post base if necessary. Attach bottom rail. Install glass or picket insert into bottom rail, making sure the insert end is flush with the bottom rail end. Measure from post to post to determine cut length of bottom rail. Use a mitre saw and cut slowly through the bottom rail and insert – this is a finished cut and will be exposed. Insert glass setting block (if necessary) to each cut piece of bottom rail tall side up (two setting blocks per glass panel) 3 to 5 inches from the inside of the post. Set the bottom rail between the posts so that it rests on top of the rail clips, taking caution to not scratch the post. Drill through center of bottom rail and center of rail clip (see the attached drawing). Apply pressure on bottom rail and fasten using #8 x ¾” stainless steel screws. Pre-drill through outside of bottom rail and top of support leg. Fasten using #8 x ¾” stainless steel screws. Pre-drill through base of support leg and deck surface. Fasten using #12 x 1 ½” stainless steel screws. Attach top rail and sleeves/post mount plates. Set top rail sleeves and post mount plates into appropriate posts (refer to post layout). Before making any cuts in the top rail, refer to the post layout cut list for maximum top rail usage. Between two corner sleeves: Measure from outside of sleeve to outside of sleeve, subtract ¼” for each sleeve for weld allowance. Mitre cut top rail for maximum strength. Between corner sleeve and center sleeve: Measure from outside of corner sleeve to middle center sleeve; subtract ¼” for weld allowance of corner sleeve. Mitre cut top rail for angle end and straight cut other end. Between two center sleeves: Measure from middle of sleeve to middle of sleeve. Cut top rail straight to fit tightly. Insert top rail into sleeves accordingly. Pre-drill and fasten each post mount plate and top rail sleeve to the post with two #8 x ¾” stainless steel screws (see attached drawing). Pre-drill and fasten top rail to sleeves using #12 x 1 ½” stainless steel screws. DO NOT use #12 x 2” stainless steel screws for this application – top rail damage will occur! Pre-drill and fasten top rail to post mount plates using #8 x ¾” stainless steel screws (see attached drawing). Attach top and bottom rail wall mounts. Note: Wall mounts should attach to house into wall framing or external blocking for maximum strength. Make allowance for blocking if necessary before cutting top or bottom rail. Fit the top rail to the wall and subtract ¼” plate allowance. Straight cut the top rail to this length. Set the top rail in place on top of the posts to determine alignment of wall mount laterally, place level on top rail to line up wall mount vertically. Note: If deck is sloped, make sure the top rail height is at least 36” at all times. Fasten top rail wall mount to wall using #12 x 2” stainless steel screws. Do not use #12 x 2” stainless steel screws for any application other than securing wall mounts. Use of # 12 x 2” screws in place of #12 x 1 ½” screws for securing sleeves or post mount plates will result in damaged top rail. Pre-drill and fasten top rail to wall mount using 2 - #12 x 1 ½” stainless steel screws (see the attached drawing). From the center of the top rail wall mount, place a level on the wall to determine the lateral center position of the bottom rail wall mount and mark accordingly. Fit the bottom rail to the wall and subtract ¼” plate allowance. Straight cut the bottom rail to this length. Set the bottom rail between the post and the wall so that it rests on top of the rail clip. Center the support leg underneath the bottom rail channel to obtain the approximate height of the bottom rail. Measure down 30 1/8” from the underside of the top of the bottom rail; mark accordingly. Place the bottom rail wall mount over the center mark and below the bottom rail height mark; fasten bottom rail wall mount to wall using #12 x 2” stainless steel screws. Pre-drill and fasten bottom rail to wall mount using 1 - #8 x ¾” stainless steel screws. Glass Option: Obtain measurements of all the daylight openings, from post to post or from post to wall. There must be at least 1 ½” gap on each side of the glass to accommodate sleeve or post mount extension. It is recommended to use a 2 ½” to 3” gap on each side of the glass for maximum uniformity and the best usage of standard glass sizes. Note: The gaps cannot be more than 4” wide for Uniform Building Code compliance. Check your local building codes for further requirements. Refer to “Standard Glass Order Form” and choose the glass sizes that are needed; be aware that glass is estimated on post layout using standard sizes – custom glass will increase the cost of the railing system. Order glass from your dealer. When glass is at job site and ready to be installed: Determine size glass for each opening; mark the underside of the top rail to maintain equal gaps. It is recommended to use glass cleaner or dish soap on the top and bottom edges of the glass and/or glass insert for ease of installation. Gently push one corner of the glass into the top of the insert on your mark; continue to push entire upper edge of glass into the insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom glass insert; gently apply downward pressure until the glass rests on the glass setting blocks installed in Step 6. Confirm that glass is centered within the opening; repeat process until all glass is installed. Clean up with glass cleaner. Picket Option: Measure bottom rail between posts to determine the length of punched spacer material needed. Mark punched spacer for cutting, making sure that the distance between the post and the first hole of the punched spacer material are equal on both ends. Cut punched spacer material with mitre saw. Determine cut marks for the top rail punched spacer, making allowances to accommodate sleeve or post mount extension and insure that holes will line up with bottom rail punched spacer when installed. Cut punched spacer with mitre saw. Invert and attach punched spacer material to the top rail using a non-marking rubber mallet. Tip: Use a 2x4 piece of wood on the edge of the punched spacer and pound wood with mallet. This will help prevent denting of the punched spacer material. Secure bottom rail punched spacer to top rail punched spacer with string or plastic shrink-wrap from packaging. Insert pickets into the bottom rail picket insert so that the bottom rail punched spacer material will slide down easily when detached from top rail. Detach and slide bottom rail punched spacer material down to rest on bottom rail. Attach punched spacer material to the bottom rail using a non-marking rubber mallet.
	Picket Component Assembly

Glass Component Assembly

KDL Enterprises, Inc.
7818 South 194th St.
Kent, WA 98032
1-800-642-9179